Wooden Compost Bin

As a keen vegetable gardener I know how important soil quality is and am continually making efforts to improve it.  We have a naturally heavy clay soil, while this means there are plenty of nutrients locked into the soil, without good drainage it would be of little benefit to my plants which would rot and succumb to disease if I didn't regularly add compost to the beds.  If you have sandy, free draining soil the addition of compost will add nutrients and improve water retention.  What wonderful stuff!   And it is all the more wonderful because it is for free, if you recycle your organic waste to make your own compost.  And unlike bought compost you can rest assured it will be peat-free and contain only those things you choose to add. 

I prefer to use a wooden compost bin constructed from wood sourced from sustainably managed woodlands, these look attractive in the vegetable garden and avoid the use of unsightly and toxically produced plastics.  There are some good modular designs available which can usually be accessed via a front panel saving on heavy back bending  work.  Having at least two bins is advisable, three (or even more) is ideal.  The reason for this is that heaps need to be regularly turned to aerate and break up the contents, these speeds the composting process, and believe me you want as much of this vegetable growing gold-dust as you can.  It is good to get a system going where once one bin is filled you turn it into the next empty bin, you then carry on filling the bin you have just turned out with new composting material.  And yes, then you repeat, turning the second bin into the third for it's final cooking, the first into the second and yes (hooray!) start all over.  This system should ensure your garden has a good constant source of fresh compost.

You need to ensure your bins are fed a good balance of what is referred to as 'green' and 'brown' waste. Green waste is nitrogen rich and brown waste is carbon rich. Aim for a 50/50 mix to start with but as you become experienced in composting you will recognize when you need to add more or less of each type of waste. Try to make alternate layers of each.  If your compost heap seems a bit wet and smelly then it is a sure sign you need to increase the 'brown' waste.  Dry heaps will fail to compost and may need watering in addition to increased 'green' waste.

Any of the following ‘green’ waste  make for acceptable contributions to your wooden compost bin; vegetable and fruit peelings, tea-bags, coffee grounds, annual plants and weeds.  Adding the leaves (but not roots or seedheads) of nettles and comfrey are highly nutritious contributions.  Grass cuttings and fine hedge trimmings can also go in.  Too much grass can make the heap slimy, so get some brown waste in there with it quickly.  To much citrus peel can make the compost bin too acidic, you can neutralize it with wood ash which has a high alkaline content. 

All of the following ‘brown’ waste can be added to your wooden compost bin; ripped up cardboard from cereal boxes, toilet and kitchen roll innners, shredded or scrunched paper (avoid anything glossy though), autumn leaves – if you have a lot of these you might prefer to make a separate leaf-mould cage, sawdust, paper and woodash, the contents of your vacuum cleaner if you know it’s only been used for dust and hair and spent garden plants.

Make sure you site your wooden compost bins on top of soil, this will provide the vital micro-life essential for the composting process and avoid anywhere that is either too sunny or too shady (both excessive heat and lack of heat will halt the composting process.)  Cover the top of your bin to prevent too much moisture from rain and to help keep the heat in.  When our compost is ready, we use the no-dig method and simply spread a layer of compost over the beds and wait for nature to do it's stuff!  Happy composting.